Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina still bears the scars of war. Pock-marked buildings, rubble, infantile beggars and a slight air of tension that suggests something could kick-off. Coaches from Dubrovnik have to park on one side of the river to ensure they don’t get stoned or damaged in some way. It doesn’t make you feel especially comfortable walking around a city that represented a defining moment in the Balkan war. Across the river sits the Old Bridge, the city’s iconic symbol that was destroyed in the war. Daredevil locals dive from it into the perilously shallow Neretva river that runs beneath. We arrive on the bridge just as a wiry youth, no more than 19, is inviting bids for him to take the plunge. The tourists,…